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All You Can Eat? Inside the Intuitive Eating Craze – Vogue
At Wolfgang Pucks CUT, a high-ceilinged steak house known for its porterhouse, I found Resch, dewy-skinned and dressed in flowy chiffon, sipping water. The nutritionist was fresh from meeting with clients at her Beverly Hills practice, where shes seen its ranks swell to almost unmanageable proportions.
We were presented with the extensive menu, and our lesson began. Step one in intuitive eating, she told me, was to start a meal with a healthy hunger. Dont eat a late lunch if you want to be excited for dinner, but dont be so hungry you demolish the breadbasket. I was starving. Id gotten so nervous about wanting to appear to eat intuitively that I hadnt eaten in hours. Step two: Clear my mind and read the menu closely, attuned to which dishes would bring me pleasure and satisfaction. Should I focus on a variety of textures? Or colors? Or plants, then meat? Raw, then cooked? Resch smiled beatifically and suggested I focus on what sounded good. Step three: Believe that all foods are morally equivalent. None is better or worse than another.
In the long term, following a program whose only rule is no rules seems as low-stress as warm hydrotherapy. But sitting across from said programs guru while evaluating a menu is stressful. When my eye landed on a salad, I worried Resch would think I was a restrictive eater, and when my eye landed on french fries, that I was beginning a binge. In the end, my intuition inexplicably insisted on French loup de mer in a steakhouse. My intuition also found the French loup de mer overcooked, but found the cherry--tomato vinaigrette irreproachable. I liked the wine, too.
Elyse told me that as a lover of food, I was uniquely well positioned to be good at this. Satisfaction, she told me, is the driving force of intuitive eating. But isnt the pursuit of satisfaction the driving force of overeating? It was time to play hardball. I love french fries, I declared. What if all I wanted to eat was french fries? Resch explained what she calls emotion light. When I am satisfied with my french fries, she saysto which I must stay closely attunedI will feel and then observe a slight sense of mourning. It feels sad to say goodbye to my french fries. It is a small sadness, though, and I should let myself feel it. I must remind myself I can have french fries again whenever I want them. She pointed out that if I did eat french fries for a number of consecutive meals, guiltlessly, I would want something else. Its impossible to envision this scenario.
What about inflammation? Detoxification? Nutrition? The obesity epidemic? Standards of beauty? Resch knocked these down like so many Cadbury Creme Eggs. (1) Worrying over everything you eat causes an increase in the stress hormone cortisol, which is known to cause cancer growth. Thats worse than inflammation. (2) The very idea that we are toxicthe premise for detoxificationis toxic. If you are after wellness, you should feel good. You cant put health over the horizon line and expect to achieve it. (3) Infants and toddlers eat intuitively. This has been proven. Resch didnt bring it up, but Ive read a fascinating 1928 study by a pediatrician named Clara M. Davis who tested nutritional intuition with a cohort of toddlers. The toddlers were presented with 34 foods at each meal for a number of years. Nurses administering the study were under strict instruction to show no bias for any food over another. The children not only ate a varied diet, but all ended up remarkably healthy. (4) Diet culture has grown as our dietary crisis and rates of unhealthy weight have increased. Whatever we are doing isnt working! There is no better evidence than the millions of years before ours. In essence, Resch said, sipping her Domaine du Bagnol and dabbing butter on her baked potato, if there is no rule to break, no code against which to cheat, longing itself takes on a different flavor: Without restriction, what need is there to indulge?
Do you know why intuitive eating is having such a moment? Resch asked provocatively. Its Trump. After so many decades of being told to be thinnerwhich, she notes, coincided with women entering the workplacewomen have had enough. Trump pushed us over the edge. We wont stand for being told how to look or sound or be anymore. The overt misogyny of the current administration might, according to her theory, spur actual liberation from restrictive eating.
As we said good night, Resch left me with a gentle reminder: If you cant really eat for yourself, you are always in a state of friction. But you can begin practicing your intuition at any time, she said. Its really very simple. It sounded religious, I remarked. She replied, Its intuitive.
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All You Can Eat? Inside the Intuitive Eating Craze - Vogue
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